Chapter 14
Downtown
Paterson by 1800 emanated out from the bridge crossing, a series of stores that
served farmers on either side of the river as well as the fledgling industries
begun at the urging of Alexander Hamilton.
Conran
Van Winkle's store occupied the curve at what was later called Water Street,
just as a point where traffic descended from the bridge on the southern or what
was then the Essex side. The weathered structure already out of date by a few
decades, would later subdivide with a man named Chauncey Andrews taking over
the General Store and George Broomhead opening a small wire works company in
another part.
Van
Winkle sold pork, molasses, tallow candles, snuff, tobacco, whisky and other
luxuries. Men from the various settlements gathered in his store to talk about
the current political feud between those supporting Hamilton's Federalism and
Jefferson's Democracy. These men also gathered to drink applejack.
Up West
Street at the Junction of Main Street (then called Park) Simeon Van Winkle, and
later his son, Jacob, ran a store call "The branch." Another more
famous store was run by John Bensen and his uncle, David; both uncle and nephew
lived in a Water Street mansion between the two bridge on the northside of the
river. Their store sat on the corner of Water and Northwest Street, near the
site of Judge Sanfor's House (almost a century later). This store lasted well
into the 1880s, although it had been built in the early 1790s. The business
itself was moved to the rear of the mansion as it bowed to competition, an slowly declined -- to finally close its door
altogether on Aug. 11, 1811. Records of its prices, however, still remain, and
one sampling of the average costs of various items has been recovered from old
documents.
Pork,
a shilling a pound
Rye
flour, 35 shillings a hundred pounds
Sugar,
a shilling a pound,
Calico,
15 pence per yard,
Soap,
one shilling, four pence,
Coffee,
three shillings a pound,
Candles,
one shilling, then pence per pound,
Molasses,
five shillings per gallon,
Salt,
four pence per quart,
Tea,
seven to nine shillings,
Butter,
one shilling, six pense
Lamb,
four shillings per quarter,
Rice,
one shilling, six pence for seven pounds,
Wheat
flour, three shillings for seven pounds.
This
last, wheat flour, was a luxury then, and used only on extra-ordinary
occasions. Rye flower was in much more common use, since farmers grew it
locally during that period when they rarely grew wheat.
A
load of wood, five schillings
Cheese,
a shilling per pound,
A
broom, one shilling, nine pence,
Tobacco,
six pence a paper,
Muslin,
four schillings a yard,
Brandy,
one shilling, six pence a pint,
Spirits,
five shillings a quart,
Gin,
three shillings a quart,
Rum,
one shilling a pint.
Almost
every customer purchased alcohol, and among other offerings were basic small necessities
such as fish hooks, needles, nails, corn, glassware, rope, axes, hander
kerchiefs, gloves, indigo, knitting needles, lozenges, hook and eyes, etc.
***********
Although
no original buildings remained there, Lower Main Street sagged under the weight
of the years, an aged face set deep with lines, the traditional roadway engraved
into the landscape to and from the location of the original bridge, following
the trail that the Lenape Indians took to the waterside to fish, wash or launch
their canoes. It was this same place at the end of Lower Main Street to which
the white men first appeared centuries later in their shallow boats, seeking a
path around the impenetrable heights of the falls, over the years, camping here
as a matter of habit, building a shelter here to comfort them in their
temporary wait before their climb up along the banks with their boats, later
building a bridge here to enhance their steady advance west and northward, the
Dutch fading into English, and English into Irish, then Jews, Italians, Blacks
and Latinos, all part of the steady march of feet invading this place, covering
it first with buildings, then with asphalt, erasing all signs of the native
feet who first walked here.
Maxwell
continually felt excluded here each time he wandered down into this section of
streets, confused as to what county he had stepped, the narrowness and the lack
of English-speaking making him think he had stepped somehow, not through time,
but through distance, one minute standing on a street corner in New Jersey's
third largest city, the next minute, caught in the close throng of a street in
the poor section of some city like Rio or San Salvador, the chatter of the
natives making him feel like an immigrant instead of them.
While
the mom and pop stores here followed the same pattern as stores in other parts
of Paterson, emerging out of the air to thrive for a while then die, these wore
their own unique faces, Sale signs written in Spanish, pasted over older, more
yellowed sale signs in countless layers that only an archeologist could unravel
-- all signs of the former colonization utterly eradicated whereas in other
neighborhoods the Irish bars and German Deli's and Italian bakeries still clung
on with their own aging constituency. Here, even the old looked and sounded
Latino, and any memory of another culture could be found only in the history
books.
Here,
winter, summer, spring or fall, racks of clothing cluttered the sidewalks along
the curb, further narrowing the street already narrowed by the press of the
three storied buildings on either side. Walking from Broadway, Maxwell turned
as often sideways as he did forward to avoid head-on collisions with people
coming the other way, his face as often pressed into clothing or doorways from
which the smell of Spanish perfume or spices emerged. Each store -- fitted with
a three or four inch tinny speaker above its ragged canvas awning -- broadcast variations
on Latino music, from the blaring trumpet intensive songs natural to Puerto
Rico to the more subtle classically influenced guitar stains more native to
places like El Salvador or Nicaragua. These sounds, like the smells, mingled
and twisted into an odd, complex cacophony, not unpleasant, just all encompassing,
and as he passed from the influence of one store into the influence of another,
he felt as if he was traveling, not feet, blocks or even miles, but again
through time and cultures in a long, head-long rush, unable to break free of
the web of influences, like a fly struggling from one strand of a spider's web
to another, in a slow inevitable journey to the web's center.
Maxwell
had come here from time to time since he was a child, first with his mother on
long tedious adventures to buy clothing, then later, after mother had been
locked away, after the house had become an unbearable dungeon, to escape. In a
strange way, even now, he was escaping as he pushed his way through the jungle
of hangers and coats, dresses, shirts, pants and knickers. Weekday mornings
were usually calm here until the first of the buses began to deposit shoppers
along Market Street and Broadway as well as the ten black stretch of upper Main
Street. Then, store by store, sale by sale, people began the arduous journey
down here -- the remaining white patrons filtered out at Broadway where they
either turned aside or back, or bolted for the buses home at the terminal at
Broadway and Spruce.
Maxwell's
mother had always been an exception to that rule, the one lone pale face
floating among the Latinos like a cork in a stream of brown water, drawing odd
stares from the store keepers on both side of the dividing line. Store keepers
north of it warned her of the dangers of the lower city. Latino store keepers
south of that line demanded to know what she wanted there when she had all
those "white" shops from which to choose from. She ignored them all
with her stout-hearted and practical approach to reality. She knew prices were
cheaper on lower Main Street and the quality of the goods better. Few of the
Latinos were willing to rip off their brothers and sisters with shoddy
merchandise as willingly as their white counterparts above Broadway. So this is
where Maxwell's mother came, and this is where she stayed.
Maxwell
weaved around people and racks, as if through a maze, passed the thick-lipped
overly painted ladies with pink lipstick, passed the hairy-chested
broad-shouldered men thick with layers of gold necklaces, men with greasy hair
and heavy cologne, men with 1920s era pinstriped suits. Everywhere the smell of
jalapeno and burned beans wafted down from the open windows of the apartments
above the stores. Winter or summer those windows remained open, curtains
flowing out like oddly patterned flags, the smell of the food mingling with the
smell of the incenses and perfume, for a sensual assault that Maxwell had come
to love.
But
even this could not erase the smell of Suzanne on him, a scent that had
imbedded itself into his jogging suit in his effort to clean her, part of her
street life rubbing off on him as he scrubbed her. He ached for a shower and a
fresh set of clothing, and thought to shop for himself, too, while here, just
to be rid of the stench, but railed against the idea of spending more money
than he needed, on things he would have no use for later when he had all the
clothing he needed at home. He would wait until he got there, then shed himself
of the smell.
Yet
walking here stirred up other older and more terrible embers than Suzanne's
plight. Maxwell had felt these stirring his first time here, a sense of wonder
that struck him even as he clung to his mother's hand. Perhaps this was the
bones of ancient Paterson poking through this thick new flesh of a
Spanish-speaking city. Perhaps it was as Creeley said, the magic that seeped
out of the cracked pavement from years of Lenape Indian rituals, a magic that
had drawn the white man here rather than merely an attraction to the falls.
Maxwell
and Creeley had routinely argued over this point, Maxwell always taking the practical
side, always pointing to the falls as an obvious source of power.
"I
agree," Creeley said, raising a forefinger the way a college professor
might in making a point. "But the waters here are source to greater powers
than you have in mind."
"Even
if that is true, and you could find magic here," Maxwell said, refusing to
get swallowed up in the Creeley's little magic traps again, "that would be
Indian Magic. But what the white man wanted here was fast moving water to run
his mills."
"Later
on that's what he wanted," Creeley said. "But when the trappers first
came it was the wonder of the place that brought them, that magic crooking its
little finger and drawing them close."
"What
for? What would white men want with Indian magic?"
"Magic
doesn't stop at color," Creeley said, "or race, or nationality. It is
a human thing, a sense that touches all people a like."
"If
so, then the white man did his best to ignore it once he got here."
"All
too sadly true," Creeley said with a heavy sigh. "As the white man
has done for so many other important things on this side of the Atlantic, and
on the other side, too, for that matter. They came, not knowing why, not
recognizing what drew them, and when they got here, they fell the trees, built
their houses and then searched out the reason for their being here. In the end,
they saw the water, attached their wheels to it, and then with their mills
spewing out consumer goods and pollution, they pronounced manufacturing as the
reason for their coming. All the while, they ignored the real reason, and
killed off those poor Indians who could have told them the truth."
Creeley,
during his long tenure here, had walked these streets in a daily search for
that truth, like an archeologist digging through the ruins of a former culture
to find the roots. He talked with old timers, white, black, Latino, Dutch,
Jewish, Irish, Italian, El Savatorian, Cuban, consulting the soothsayers and
healers of each culture for clues that would lead him deeper into the earth.
Old women wearing scarfs on their heads and gold earrings in their ears,
greeted him on the street or called after him as he wandered past their candle
lit windows.
"Powell!
Powell!" they called, and he waved, a man growing grey in his search, the
light in his eyes growing dimmer and dimmer as the years went on his search
grew fruitless, and his changes of finding the one true channel to the great
mystery here became more and more remote.
But
from the time Maxwell first met Creeley, those walk here had already taken on
he aspect of legend, police and politicians, storekeepers and street sweepers,
office clerks and prostitutes all knowing who he was, if not exactly what he
searched for.
Creeley's
trips came mostly in the evening, after the rush hour traffic ceased and the
shoppers had faded with the last buses back to the fringes of papers, when the
old women with scarves and gold teeth lighted their candles in their windows to
draw the spirits in, glass enclosed candles upon whose outer surface flickered
the faces of saints each winking in the flicker of flame. From this place,
Creeley transported images back to the loft, where he converted sketches to
canvas or to manuscript, documenting each and every change he encountered, the
master plan of which he had long ago set down in the more permanent canvas of
his mind.
Day by
day, he examined his visual and handwritten notes, and grew more grey over
them, taking to talking to himself, muttering his disappointments. Day by day,
the images of Lower Main Street grew more and more twisted, changing from the
nearly photographic realistic of his early works to impressionist, pointillistic
visions, then finally to globs and blots of color, some floating amoeba-like in
images a micro-biologist might find when staring into a microscope, more often,
these became blocks of reds or greens, or blues, shaded at the edges, yet so
geometrical they had ceased to resemble humans at all.
These
last had startled Maxwell the most, for they reminded him of a repeated dream
he had suffered with as a child, where the people in his life turned into
geometric shapes, uncles into triangles, aunts into squares, all looming over
him, their gigantic shadows threatening to crush him with their overwhelming
weight. The only salvation he had in this dream was the small, round gumball
dispenser. He would put a penny in it and out rolled balls of gum, red and
green and blue and white, bouncing over the pale and foreign landscape like
escaping prisoners.
Creeley's
paintings and the dream they recalled haunted Maxwell as he walked among the
buildings and people, as if both dream and painting had managed to suddenly
become real, both capturing an important aspect of this place that mere mortal
eyesight could not see, the paintings stripping away the garnishes of clothing
and sale signs to the root of the place, finding not the magic for which
Creeley so desperately search, but geometric and meaningless shapes, and
Maxwell, after having the pattern pointed out to him by those paintings, unable
to see them as anything else.
Perhaps
it was something as simple as the narrow streets and the way the upper stories
of the buildings seemed to hang out over the street, helping to blot out
sunlight, leaving the place in a haze of car fumes and cooking smoke, and
perfume -- the lack of sky keeping the air trapped here, multiplying the scent
of the people and the spices, especially on overly warm days, stewing it into a
stronger even more volatile broth which drenched its people, and those like
Maxwell or Creeley who came here often.
Then,
Maxwell reached the river, a section of the river that twisted away from the
foot of the falls through the channels where many of the mills rested on its
shore (now brick ruins in which the junkies slept and fires started). The
riverbed widened here, and the water slowed, and the banks lowered to a more
reasonable height, banks upon which houses had been build, backs up to the edge
with overhanging wooden porches as rickety and unusable as if they were pieces
of the original old Passaic Hotel, crumbling over time. Laundry hung from the
rails. Old men stood staring out over the water, sucking on cigarettes, smoke
mingling with their steaming breath to leave small clouds around their faces.
Here,
on this side, stood Rosey's Bar and Grill, as tattered and crumbling a building
as in any part of this town, its red sided box faded and cracked, its signs
pealing and its steps broken. At one time, the small dock -- now only posts at
its rear -- served as a recreation center for couples seeking to ride out onto
the water, or fishermen intent on an all day excursion down to the Garfield
shallows. Maxwell could remember the last of these boats from when he was a
kid, rotting, disused at the pier with a few die-hard fishermen clinging to the
warped grey board of the pier in an effort to draw anything more than old boots
from the polluted water. But now, twenty odd years later, even the fishermen
had surrendered, and the bar which had once served them as center for their
tale-telling and a place to get a warm meal, became like the pier, a lone
holdout for the dying white man's hobby here in the heart of Paterson, old
white men, who remembered better days, cling into the its bar stools and
lingered over warming bottles of beer. Now, the only tales told here had been
repeated so often and for so long, they had taken on more the aspect of myth
than memory, with names like Sam Patch, James Ryan, Archie McKee, George Dobbs,
Harvie Leslie and others bandied about, with only the old men knowing exactly
who they were and what they did and when they had been last seen in these
parts.
Ruined
and abandoned store fronts separated the tavern from the rest of the street, as
did a cobblestone road with the big red Rosie's as a barrier to traffic
plunging down Lower Main Street towards the River. Many of the cowboy drunks
from Wayne found themselves lost and confused when they rushed down here on
weekends-- finding Rosey's building rather than the bridge across -- already
peeved about the fact that the go-go girls in other bars had not taken up their
offer for a blow job or a visit upstairs to bed. The side of Rosey's had been
struck numerous times over the years. Creeley spoke of a time when one pickup
truck crashed right through the wall, emerging through the huge mirror that had
once filled the wall behind the bar.
"Many
a man got cured of alcohol that night," Creeley recalled with a deep
laugh, a laugh he usually reserved from some ironic discovery he made during
his search for the mystical past.
After
numerous assaults, the bar owner -- Rosey -- installed a guard rail along the
crumbling sidewalk, and even this later bore the brunt of the impacts until the
city finally closed off most of Lower Main Street to traffic, in the late
1970s.
This
was not a move made to save Rosey's but part of an effort to compete with the
increasing influence of Willowbrook and Wayne Hills malls, which was slowly
stealing business away from the traditional hub of business downtown. The city
fathers mistakenly believed they could keep people doing business here if they
created a mall-like atmosphere, the city fathers hoping Sterns would stay and
Macy's would come. In breathless anticipation, they even held an official
ground breaking, and waited for the rich house wives from Wayne to replace
their whoring cowboy husbands in the rush down the hill, only to be
disappointed when it was the cowboys seeking love-making that continued
instead.
Maxwell
had only been inside Rosey's once, and then in search of Creeley when Maxwell
had lost his keys to the loft and needed the old man to let him back in.
Creeley had visited the place as part of his daily tour, listening to the old
men tell their tales. Creeley hoped to catch some clues in the endless variety
of names, places and details.
"How
can you stand it?" Maxwell asked Creeley once. "They repeat the same
stories over and over."
"Very
true," Creeley said with a gleam in his eyes. "But never twice the
same way."
The
door to the building protruded from the east side, a small vestibule with a
peaked roof looking much like an early 19th century outhouse. Men stomped the
mud and snow off their boots here, then pushed through another door into the
bar itself. Along the left, north wall men lined the stools to the bar, backs
bent, heads down, only the most curious and still sober glancing up to see who
had just come in. A dilapidated pool table stood at the far or west end, in a
kind of alcove suggested that the building had originally been a barn and that
side the main doorway. A few square tables made of splintering wood filled in
the empty space between the bar and the south wall. There might have been room
for a dance floor if the tables had been set aside. Yet one walk across the
bare wooden planks explained why no one bothered. On a busy Friday or Saturday
night, the floor seemed to bend down, creaking and groaning like a masted ship
in a gale -- each step threatening to be the one to send the floor and building
into ruin.
Maxwell
did not go in this time, through from the half dozen pickup trucks parked in
the gravel lot along the east side, he knew nothing had changed inside, and he
wondered if any of the aging drunks missed Creeley half as much as Maxwell did.
A small
seed store -- just up Water Street from the bar and slightly divorced from the
Latino quarter of huddled buildings -- struck Maxwell with greater pangs of
loneliness, since Creeley had always used this place the way other
intellectuals used book stores or libraries, going in daily to speak with the
owner about the latest issue of flower or vegetable seeds, pondering over seed catalogues
with the diligence of researchers and the respect of priests for biblical
texts. From this place, Creeley continually returned with unmarked packets out
of which he removed a variety of samples at night.
With a
lone light hanging over his table, Creeley sat with a jeweler's eye glass and
tweezers, separating the varieties, examining each with the utter satisfaction.
Maxwell
stopped before the door of what amounted to a shack. The shutters had been
drawn across it glassless windows. While the place had always appeared in
disrepair, the wood planks that served as walls had gaps through which he could
insert his fingers, and splinters as larges as knives, the place now looked
abandoned. The wood had grown greyer, lacking any paint or white wash. On rainy
days, water seeped through these walls unimpeded, and down through the rusty
seams of the tin-sheeted roof. Half the day on these occasions, the old man
spent shifting sheets of plastic to protect his stock or moving to empty
buckets that had brown too full.
Now, a
small cardboard sign hung from the door, yellowed slightly with rust marks
flowing down from its staples, yet clearly put up since the last time Maxwell
had wandered this way. Its message was almost a plea for help, printed in
letters large enough that a three year old might have understood them: FOR
SALE.
This
startled Maxwell. This had been an institution of a different sort here in
Paterson, a holy place upon which Maxwell
had come to rely in Creeley's absence. Unlike Rosey's bar or the dead
plants hanging beneath the skylight in the loft, this place had sparked more
hopeful memories in Maxwell, and framed his final vision of Creeley, not as a
bitter defeated man making a retreat from Paterson (AKA George Washington, 200
years earlier) but as a kind of Johnny Appleseed moving on after his work had
finished, to retire to a lake side retreat where his plants could flourish in
the ground rather than clay and plastic pots, where he could -- if he wished --
fill up his yard and house with overflowing green without fear of limited
sunlight or an overabundance of pollution.
Yet
seeing this shop closed, further destroyed that vision, and left Creeley's
retreat cluttered with ruin: plants and trees vanishing as thoroughly as the
south had under General Sherman during the American Civil War. Perhaps Creeley
had moved on to better pastures, but behind him, Maxwell stood alone in those
ruins with all the remaining institutions of hope collapsing around him.
The
sign gave no reason for the closing. The old man, who ran the shop, could have
died or gone broke. He might have come to miss Creeley as much as Maxwell did,
or he might even have succumbed to the greedy slumlords who wanted to use this
space to house the thousands of immigrants that came to Paterson each year or
to the speculating developers who bought land wholesale here on the off chance
Paterson might someday turn itself around and become a place worth building in.
Some believed Paterson would change once the off ramp from Route 80 was
complete and the Federal Building went up, causing a sweeping change to occur
not only downtown, but here and elsewhere on the boundaries, transforming these
ragged blocks into gold, with bulldozers to push buildings and people out of
progress' way.
More
likely, Maxwell thought, the old man simply saw the direction Paterson was
headed in, as Creeley had, and moved onto his own nirvana, leaving the city to
its own fate.
Then,
Maxwell turned back, moving towards downtown again along the other side of
Lower Main Street, the threads of the past evaporating as he came back to the
present and his present needs. People appeared, shoulder to shoulder along the
narrow street, stopping to gawk at the wares, fingering the fabrics, full
daylight bringing them out the way darkness brought out the bums, their voices
filling the space with yammering and laughter.
Half
way up the block, men and women crowed around a Spanish deli's door, jostling
each other as they wanted for the slow Latino clerk to work through each order.
Creeley used to buy his coffee here, a strong branch of Puerto Rican blend that
stunk up the loft each morning and left a thick, oily taste after a single sip.
Maxwell
almost stopped to buy some, but resisted the urge. Buying coffee he didn't need
would not bring back Creeley, or fill the hole left by the old man's leaving.
Maxwell hurried on, aware that he had wasted a lot of time already, and
imagined Jack squawking at Suzanne, or cursing him in a panic over the possible
arrival of Mr. Harrison. Still, Maxwell could not for himself to move faster,
as if caught in a sleepy spiel, one that cast him into a haze of memory each
time he crossed over the boundary into this place.
Creeley
would have defined it as an aspect of this place's overall magic, a clue to
those oriental Native American Indian spirits for which the old man had
searched for so long.
"You
can feel it," Creeley told Maxwell after one walk or another. "It was
very strong today."
This
feeling defined Creeley's day the way weather did for other people, and after
any morning in which "the vibes were strong", Maxwell caught the
sharp tangy scent of incense rising from Creeley's corner of the loft, and
heard the old man's thick voice chanting out of some sacred text in hopes of
drawing these spirits closer. Only God knew where Creeley had acquired the
texts, probably from some dark shop with some gnarled dealer. Creeley dealt
constantly with some creepy characters, some of whom even came to the
downstairs door of the loft from time to time, strange men who rarely stepped
out of the shadow of the furniture store when asking for the old man.
In full
daylight and among the yakking Latino women, these characters did not appear,
and the haze that had overcome Maxwell down by the seed shop eventually
evaporated as he plunged back into the world of clothing racks and bartering
sales people, perfume, cologne, cigarette smoke and body odor. Latino men
shouted over each other to barging down the prices of goods. Many of the
products came here as factory seconds, though a good deal of the stuff was too
ethnic in color and design for any local factory to lay claim to. Maxwell
recognized none of the labels, but knew that at least some of these came from the
sweat shops along the river, the grey-doors of unmarked buildings into which
people mysterious went each morning and exited each night, out front of which
old women sorted through piles of discarded, odd-angled fabric each Friday.
Sometimes on sunny summer days when the heat forced managers to open the
windows, Maxwell could look in or hear the rattle and clack of the looms as he
jogged by,, with grim and determined black and Latino faces leaning over the
machines, their frustration written out on their faces in wrinkles. Each time
Maxwell saw or heard them, he realized how little Paterson had changed down
deep from the past, trading the huge brick silk mills of open exploitation for
small cottage-style factories hidden among the more legitimate business. And
each time, he wondered, which aspect of the glorious past the city fathers had
in mind when they sought to revive the city.
Maxwell
paused in front of one of the shops that seemed most likely to have what he
wanted, a narrow store front wedged between fresh vegetables and housewares.
Unlike many of the other stores up and down the street, the goods here seemed
plainer and less gawdy, with a few dresses and skirts in its window that
actually appealed to Maxwell's simple taste. Even then, the Latino extravagance
showed in some of the smaller items, frilly under garments and low cut blouses.
Many of the Latino women passed by without noticing the store and those who did
go in, had the practical, even blunt expressions of factory women. A few young
girls -- firmly in the grip of matron mothers glanced at Maxwell as they passed
him.
Maxwell
lingered at the doorway among the racks of skirts, now reluctant to proceed
with his plan, wondering if perhaps he should have brought Suzanne to measure
the garments against. He didn't trust his memory, something that seemed to
betray him as much as it reflected his history with her. He shifted to one side
only to find a hand grabbing at his arm through the racks of clothing, a hand
with pointed red nails and numerous gold and silver multi-stoned rings. It
gripped him and held him as the arm appeared, then the slightly portly shape of
a woman, more gypsy than Latino, though clearly as Spanish in origin as her
customers.
"You
want something, mister?" she asked with a grin intended as seductive, a
gold tooth glinting from a mouthful of otherwise unmarred teeth. She had popped
up between the blouses and skirts the way one of Creeley's spirits might have,
her thick black hair poking out from under a kerchief decorated with pink roses
and lime green leaves. She smelled of incense and perfume, coffee and
cigarette, which made Maxwell a little dizzy.
"You
speak good English?" Maxwell asked, reluctant to test his Spanish in the
matter of buying clothing. He might spend much more time trying to translate
than needed and come away with garments Suzanne could never wear.
The
woman, however, shook her head. "English, no good," she said.
It made
sense. Down here, few had opportunity to practice such a skill, where all but
the cops and the social workers spoke some variety of Spanish.
Maxwell
sighed, and then dredged up recollections of college Spanish, the kind of
classical stuff these people frowned over whenever he attempted it in the past,
that Castilian dialect acceptable in Europe which colleges and high schools
could teach with clear conscience, but did not reflect very much what went on
in the Latino world.
He
tested a few phrases on the woman, but her face remained blank, the eyes
squinting ever so slightly as if she saw something on his nose and struggled to
determine what it was.
"No
comprende," she said when Maxwell finished, and he sagged a little,
already too weary to engage in a long process by hand gestures and grunts.
Yet
what other options did he have? He could look over the street and find someone
who spoke both English and Spanish well enough to act as a go-between, and yet
come up with no one. After a moment, he sighed again, then motioned towards the
skirts.
"I
need some women's clothing," he said, in the same slow English that
tourists used when traveling to foreign countries, each believing that if
spoken slowly enough and loudly enough the listener would understand, as if
they believed themselves talking to children, not adults.
The
woman continued to frown, her dark gaze flickering from the garment to
Maxwell's face and back again, seemingly unable to make a connection. Then, a
growing horror came across her face and she shook her head sharply.
"No
good clothes for men," she said and jabbed her ring-encrusted finger in
the direction of a smaller display where gaudy silk shirt and striped
bell-bottom pants made up the men's section.
"But
I don't want those, I want these," Maxwell growled, too tired after his
dealings with Suzanne for an extended argument. Only now did he realized his mistake
by coming here, and what these people would think by having him -- a man --
buying such things. He would have been better shopping in the more traditional
shopping district, where the store owners knew a bit more English and he could
have explained better the reasons behind his purchase.
This
woman, however, ceased to direct him towards the men's wear, and her expression
changed from helpful and annoyed to suspicious. Paterson had a fair-sized
population of transvestites, who wandered lower Market Street at night like
wraiths. The blacks endured them, the whites hurled beer bottles at them, but
the Latinos -- who seemed to take their existence as a person affront -- often
cornered the overdressed figures and beat them up. On most Friday nights, St.
Joseph's Hospital pulled in women’s battered bodies only to discovered them to
be men.
"You
go," the woman said, strong fingers pinching Maxwell's arm as she
propelled him towards the door.
"No,
no, you don't understand," Maxwell protested. "The clothing isn't for
me. It's for a friend, a female friend."
Again,
the woman stared, attempting a translation from his expression, shaking her
head from side to side with the same slow sense of doubt. Maxwell dredged up a
few more words from his college Spanish and pieced them together into a
coherent, if not grammatically correct phrase. The woman continued to study
him, seemingly unconvinced, though less insistent about his leaving. Maxwell
fumbled the cash from his pocket, and this seemed to win the woman over.
"You
come," she said and led him on a tour of the store, through the crowded,
shoulder to shoulder racks of female garments. Most of it proved far too
flaunting, low shouldered, deep necked, things designed for Friday night out of
the town. These were the kind of things Maxwell saw routinely on his walks
through town, young women standing outside smokey bars, giggling and flirting
with equally exaggeratedly dressed men, all with outrageous color combinations
designed to draw attention. Maxwell wanted simple fair, plain cloths in which
Suzanne would become invisible, just one more ordinary soul among the masses
who happened to stop in on the Greasy Spoon for a meal.
It took
him time to get this message across to the woman, and strangely, when the woman
finally got it, she looked relieved. Transvestites tended to prefer the gawdy
wear, and after a short further search, the woman produced a plain white dress,
something that might have served a nurse, though far less starched.
Gesturing
wit his hands, Maxwell managed to convey the size, which further settled the
woman's agitation. The dress he indicated was clearly too small to fit Maxwell,
though now, Maxwell's level of discomfort rose as he tried to describe the less
obvious garments. While he could clearly remember the texture and firmness of
Suzane's breasts, he could only vaguely translated this into a bra size, and
gave up with a guess after he examined several, as he did for the rest of the
under garments, selecting three of each along with three sets of socks, two
skirts, two blouses, and two sets of tennis sneakers. He guessed large on these
last, believing she could easily pad the extra space with extra socks, rather
than guessing too small and trying to have her squeeze her feet into them.
Then,
with the shopping finished, Maxwell allowed the woman to pack it all up in two
shopping bags, bags recycled from the now defunct Grants store that had once
been a main stay of the downtown shopping district.
The
woman wrote the cost on a piece of register tape. The amount was surprisingly
low and he grinned as he counted out the bills, putting each into the palm of
her hand. Finally, he took up his purchases and plunged back out into the busy
street, aware of the woman's stare at his back. But even that feeling faded,
and he caught sight of the time from a clock in the window of a deli, the
steamed glass bloating the numbers a little, and yet did not make him feel any
less guilty about how much time he had wasted. But at least Suzzane would be
dressed like a human being, something less Maxwell would have to think about
tonight when he had to meet Patty at a club called "The Palace."
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